SLOW IS FAST
Absorbed in a life of professional surfing, Dan Malloy rarely had the chance to explore the world the way he wanted to. Although Malloy expressed his great appreciation for the opportunities presented to him through his career as a professional surfer, he said how the action sports industry is portrayed is false in a number of ways.
Fans tend to clutch to the idea that athletes are immersed in the environments of the far-off locations they visit around the world for competitions—that they’re living a very laid-back kind of life. Malloy said for him, it was the opposite. When he was informed of a good swell or had to travel to compete, “I’d get on a plane, surf, then go right back home.” The lifestyle was far from relaxed, jumping from one surf hot spot to another, rarely absorbing the culture of each place along the way. The industry seems to focus mainly on the promotion of athletes in the world of overdone advertising, depicted as almost super humans gracing the covers of glossy magazines.
“A lot of what portrays the surfing world is pure fiction,” he said.